Thinking About Getting a Puppy or Dog?

The New Canine Family Member

If you haven't gotten your dog yet and are in the process of researching, congratulations!

You are one of a select group of folks who realize that adding a new canine member to the family is not a decision to be made impulsively. You are aware of, and don't take lightly, the cost, committment and responsibility involved in adding a dog to your family (about 15 years worth!).

If you're just starting to think about getting a dog, please consider the following:

• Is a dog the right pet for you and your family? ("Should You Get a Puppy" and "Get Real"- an article to help new dog owners develop realistic expectations)
• Can you afford the vet, food, toys and equipment bills? (Your dog's food choice requires some research, on your part, to determine the best for her. Don't plan to buy just whatever is on sale at the local discount or grocery store. See FAQs for more info.) Drs. Foster & Smith have an interesting article on "Cost of Owning" a dog. The ASPCA offers another cost calculator here.
• Are you ready to puppy-proof your home (and most of the proofing applies to adult dogs, too)
• All but a handful of breeds shed. All of them can track dirt and debris into your house, as well. Are you prepared to live with the mess and extra cleaning involved?
• Your dog will need exercise, healthy food, grooming, training and, of course, your companionship and love. Will you provide them?
• Where will your dog get his exercise? Most dogs need vigorous exercise at least twice a day. A fenced yard is the best option, while dog daycare, arranged play-dates, and dog parks provide other options. If you plan to exercise your dog in your own yard, does your neighborhood allow fences? If not, you may wish to participate in your neighborhood meetings to try to convince your association otherwise. Fences or extra-large dog runs can be tastefully built and/or placed. Even more affordable chain-link can be vinyl coated in black or green which becomes nearly invisible in most yards. A word about electronic/"invisible" fences. Our recommended reading list includes a wonderful book, Dog-Friendly Gardens, Garden-Friendly Dogs... which helps you design a yard both you and your dog can enjoy!
• Do you understand what it takes to be a responsible dog owner? (Click here to read a good, short article on responsible pet ownership)
• Are you mentally prepared? (Click here for a Dog Preparedness Checklist from animalplanet.com)



For more information on dogs in general go to animalplanet.com's Dog Guide

Too often, we see dogs living outside in backyards, pens, cable runs, or tied to something (which is actually illegal in a couple of states, thank goodness) with minimal human (or even animal) contact; they are often called "yard" or "outside" dogs by their owners. Most dogs are very social animals and need to be surrounded by their "packs" (you and your family). The unfortunate myth that, because dogs are animals, they belong outside, is often responsible for many dogs living in these sad situations. Your dog belongs inside, with you! Also, dogs tied to cable runs or stationary objects or inside electronic fences are vulnerable to attacks from other animals or people. Since they can't escape, those who survive often become aggressive in self-defense.

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Breeding Your Dog

Breeding dogs requires a great deal of thought, time and effort. Please don't plan to breed your dog if:

• your dog does not have a near-perfect pedigree (lineage); this includes temperament AND health.
• you don't know much about the potential sire or dam, or the potential sire or dam has any undesirable traits, (your neighbor's dog might be very handsome, but did you know that his pedigree is riddled with hip dysplasia and aggression? Not good traits to propagate!)
• you don't plan to do lots of research into how you can add value to the existing gene pool
• you don't have the time to spend assiduously socializing the entire litter (see recommended reading and videos for books which further explain proper socializing)
• See the following links for detailed information on dog breeding:
  • Breeding Your Dog: How to be Best Prepared
  • The Cost of Breeding Dogs and
  • Checklist Before Breeding Your Dog- Petstyle.com
  • How to Breed Your Pet and Sell the Litter
  • Superdogs are Made Not Born - Joyce O'Kelley
    typed and re-formatted by Sherry Clark

  Please consider spaying or neutering your dog; if you visit a local shelter or humane society, you'll see why (Petfinder.com). Too many "good" dogs are euthanized each day.
  

  Some folks say they want their children to see the wonder of birth, and therefore, allow their female pups to have one litter before spaying her. Please do not propagate this needless and irresponsible tradition in your family. Try to think of creative ways to do this without adding to a huge population of homeless pets; even young children, accompanied by

  There are many great dogs in shelters and rescue organizations available for adoption. Most only need basic training to be wonderful companions. Click here and here to see many of these adoptable dogs. More facilities listed here.

  an adult, may volunteer at most local animal shelters. Videos may be available at your local library or bookstore which provide an in-depth look into the birth of animals or humans. Local breeders may allow you to bring your children to see young puppies and how the mother cares for them. When puppies reach certain ages, your children can even help the breeder with her socialization program. All you've actually taught your children, if this is your reason for breeding, is that puppies are disposable and that they don't need to worry about what will happen to them later.

  Responsible breeders will have homes waiting for puppies before they are even conceived! Responsible breeders will also start socializing their litters as soon as they come into the world. See recommended reading below for suggested books and videos about socializing puppies.
  
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Research

So you've decided that you're ready to take the big step and make room in your life for a dog!

Talk to vets, breeders, shelter workers, groomers, and trainers to help you determine the type of dog that would best suit your lifestyle and preferences.

Visit more than one shelter, or more than one breeder; don't impulse-buy--they're ALL going to be cute.

Please do not buy from a pet store. You'll likely end up with an unhealthy specimen of the breed you pick, and you will be encouraging puppy mills (see FAQs for more info.) to "manufacture" more pups. Many rescue groups hold their "adoption days" at local pet stores. This shouldn't be confused with pet stores that sell puppies. Adoption days held by reputable adoption/rescue agencies are a good way to select a new canine family member.

Before getting that puppy or dog, be sure you have already investigated vets, trainers, and premium food suppliers in your area.

If you've decided to go with a purebred dog, check Petfinder and the many purebred rescue agencies available on the internet. Here is one pretty comprehensive list.

If you prefer to go direct to a breeder for your purebred pup, you'll need to do some intensive research to find a truly responsible breeder. Don't allow yourself to be swayed by flashy website, handsome dog photos or verbal assurances and promises. This is your new family member, and will be with you for about the next 15 years! Make sure you spend the time your family deserves. Download this list of questions to ask the breeders you choose to investigate: Breeder Questionnaire

It may seem like a daunting list of questions, but insist on a thoughtful answer to each applicable question. Reputable breeders will often provide you with detailed contracts and questionnaires of their own, and will understand and appreciate your desire to get the best puppy possible for your family. Of course, good answers to these questions do not guarantee you will end up with a "perfect" puppy, but it will go a long way towards this end.

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I've Got One--Now What Do I Do?

Socialize

If you are getting a puppy between the ages of 7 and 16 weeks old, it is critical that you concentrate on properly socializing her.

What the average dog owner knows about getting a new puppy is that she will need to be housetrained and taught not to chew on the furniture. But so much more needs to be done during this short period in your dog's life!

Many new puppy owners are confused about what exactly "socialization" means. It's not enough just to have your puppy play with other puppies. The word socialization actually refers to the concept of introducing your puppy to the great, big, world outside mamma-dog's comforting presence. Puppies and unsocialized dogs are neophobic (afraid of new things). They actually would stay more safe that way if they were wild dogs. New things in the wild (or for some strays, in the city) frequently represent a threat to the dog's existence and it benefits him most not to readily accept them.

It's up to YOU to teach your new puppy that your friends, family, the delivery man, your vet, the cats next door, the construction equipment down the street and your car (among thousands of other things) should be tolerated if not welcomed. Unfortunately, you only have 6-9 weeks in which to build this foundation for your pet. A dog who does not receive proper socialization risks becoming a very stressed (and, consequently, less healthy) and high-maintenance family member; high-maintenance because it is your responsibility to keep others safe from your fearful dog.

Your vet may recommend that you keep your dog inside until her puppy vaccinations are complete. Your vet is concerned about your puppy's health. However, it is not necessary to isolate your puppy during this period. You MUST socialize your puppy during this period regardless of whether her vaccinations are complete. You can safely carry your puppy to places to meet people and be around other dogs. You can use a backpack or carrying sling or dog stroller to get your puppy out safely. Just don't let his feet touch the ground if it's an unsafe area (where dogs are allowed to walk). Our free handout on socializing your puppy, on our FAQs page has many ideas to help you through this time period.

There are many quality trainers and wonderful books and videos on the market to help you through this phase (see recommended reading and videos). Seriously consider attending a puppy socialization class with your new pup. Puppy Adept offers puppy classes regularly. Go to our Classes page for more information.

Here is an excellent article by Suzanne Clothier entitled "He Just Wants to Say 'Hi'." This is a MUST READ for all dog owners and potential owners.

See our FAQs page for a free handout on socializing your puppy, as well as a handout on housetraining. More coming soon...

Train

We can't emphasize enough how important training is for your new puppy or dog. Don't wait until behavior becomes a problem. Practice prevention through proper training from the first week you get your puppy or dog. We can recommend many good books and videos for training your dog yourself (go to our recommended reading and videos section) or you should find a trainer in your area who uses humane, reward-based and ethical training methods. (Recommended trainers other than Puppy Adept, Inc. can be found on our Links page.) When searching for a trainer, you'll discover many websites with trainer directories to aid your search, such as www.apdt.com, www.clickertrainers.com, and www.petnet.com. The trainers on these

click the picture above for expert opinions

lists have paid to have their names listed in the directories; all of them do not necessarily practice the methods touted on the website. Have a list of questions in front of you when you call your list of potential trainers, so that you don't become too sidetracked while talking to them. Be wary of slick marketing campaigns and vague guarantees. If she answers your questions to your satisfaction, and you feel good about the trainer you've talked to, visit a class or talk to others about the training program. (Go to APDT's How to Choose a Trainer for questions to ask.)

Your puppy's crate will play a big part in your her life. You need to buy her crate immediately. Buy one for the size you expect your dog to be, not the size she is now. It should have a divider, though, so that you don't allow her too much room. She should have just enough room to stand up and turn around. Given too much room, she'll likely eliminate in her crate, which you don't want her to learn to do. Click here to go to Pat Miller's website and a great discussion on crates and instructions on how to crate train.

Enrich Their Lives

Dogs usually need a job or something to keep them busy. If you don't give your dog a challenge or two, he'll find his own. Digging, barking and chewing problems usually occur when a dog becomes bored. Like us, they need to use their brains. Enrichment comes through training, interacting with you, and through playing with toys. Believe it or not, the right kinds of toys can improve your chances of having a well-behaved canine family member, as well. Spend most of your "toy money" buying interactive toys like Kong products, Busy Buddy products like Twist 'n' Treats, Buster Cubes, Molecuballs, Canine Genius Leo, Intellicubes and Dr. Noy's removable squeaker toys. Additionally, dogs must have toys just for chewing on. Nylabone makes some of the best toys for this. All of these products can be purchased through the suppliers listed on our Links page, as well.)

You'll also need to find games to play with your dog. Games like retrieving a ball or Frisbee can provide exercise as well. Other ideas for enrichment include hide and seek played with family members or teaching your dog to find an item like a ball or favorite toy.

Keep Them Healthy

Your dog will need annual check-ups, but not necessarily annual vaccinations. Click on the poster below for more information. Hall County

Click the poster above for more information about vaccinating your pet.

does, unfortunately, require annual rabies vaccinations.

Check out our FAQs section for more answers to some of your questions about adding a new pup to your family.

Finally, feel free to send us an email so that we can help you with your specific questions.

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**If you are a behaviorist or trainer, your input regarding this page is welcomed. Please contact us with your comments.

Shock, Electric, "Invisible," and Underground Fences and Shock Collars - The Shocking Truth

We do not recommend this equipment for training purposes. The idea of hurting a dog for doing something he didn't know he wasn't supposed to do in the first place is inhumane. Even if he does have a pretty good idea of what he should be doing, he can make mistakes--especially in a large area defined by few or no markers. Imagine

click the symbol above for what others are saying about shock collars (add your name to the list while you're there!)

yourself wearing a shock collar at your new job. Every time you do something wrong you get shocked. Eventually, you'd likely be afraid to work at all.

Here are a few things to keep in mind when considering the use of a shock fence:

• Your pet is vulnerable because other animals can get into the fence and he may have nowhere to escape within your marked boundaries
• A highly aroused (scared, offensive, territorial...) dog can cross the boundary, but he won't want to cross the shock zone when he's ready to come home.
• in the event of electrical storms or power disturbances, it is suggested by some manufacturers that you turn your fence off to eliminate the chance of unwarranted shocks or a disruption in operation of the fence.
• Some pets become afraid of going outside entirely
• The signals created by other wires in your yard or house can be picked up by the radio collar your dog is wearing causing him to receive seemingly random shocks.
• A dog can receive unintentional negative messages about other elements in his environment, which may create aggressive behavior (e.g. if your dog is attracted to people initially, and attempts to approach anyone walking by your "fenced" area, he will be shocked or warned when he gets too close. If this happens enough, your dog could inadvertently learn to associate the unpleasant consequence of the shock or warning of a shock with the arrival of people. Unfortunately, your dog can become aggressive towards people, at this point, whether or not he is within the confines of your fence.) Here's what Pat Miller, author, trainer, CPDT, and previous APDT president has to say... (http://www.peaceablepaws.com/pages/faq.asp#3, 4/22/05), as well as a commentary by Richard Polsky "Can Aggression in Dogs be Elicited Through the Use of Electronic Pet Containment Systems" (http://www.dogexpert.com/Polsky%20Papers/Electronicfences.html)
• If a person or neighbor's pet comes into the defined area and your pet harms her, you may find yourself involved in an expensive lawsuit, and/or expensive medical bills.
• Collars can malfunction and cause serious burns to your dog. (Please read Whole Dog Journal's Simply Shocking by Pat Miller, [Whole Dog Journal, April 2003, Vol. 2, No. 4]). To subscribe to Whole Dog Journal go to Whole Dog Journal's Website.
• Because of the reasons above, you should not leave your dog alone in a shock-fence contained area.


"... says Kim Leasure, Communications Manager for Invisible Fence, Inc.  "However, it's not a panacea.  We don't advise people to leave their companion animals outdoors while they're at work all day.  Someone should always be in or near the yard to look after the family pet." (http://www.sthuberts.org/petpouri/articles/fencing.asp, 4/20/05)

Shock collars that are used for basic/general training purposes attempt to teach your dog all of the things he shouldn't do, instead of working on training your dog to do what he should do. Because your dog gets a shock for anything that isn't the "right" thing, he can develop insecure or aggressive behavior.

The San Francisco SPCA says about using shock and choke collars to train:

These techniques are not only unnecessary, but combined with poor timing (as is often the case) they are ineffective—and can actually be cruel. Not only does the dog experience the mental and physical punishment, but she also does not know how to avoid it. Whether it is choke collars, shock collars or worse, physical punishment of dogs under the guise of “training a dog for her own good” is inappropriate and unnecessary. A trainer who believes the momentary strangling of a dog to teach her not to pull on her leash is necessary is hardly a friend of dogs—and certainly not worth the fee. (http://www.sfspca.org/behavior/dog_library/index_library.shtml, Choke & Shock Collars: BAD!, 4/20/05)

Dr. Karen Overall has this to say about shock collar training.

And, from the Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors, Shock Collars: The Shocking Truth

One dog owner's story about her "invisible fence" experience: Click here.

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